05 October 2009
The Eitelsbacher Bunny
It's been a long time since the last post; I'm sure the one or two subscribers here are massively disappointed. I get that, and I'm sorry. However, I've been doing my very best to catalog our wine life in the meantime. I can say for certain there hasn't been a dull moment in consumption since August 6th's wine, just not enough time to write things down in two different places. While in some things I feel I can go, go, go--so to speak--in others I find I'm far from Energizer Bunny status. Speaking of the bunny, let me break something down for the folks back home. When it comes to off-the-beaten-path Mosel Riesling--well, Ruwer Riesling to be specific, Right Bank to be exact--this is about as go-go-go as it comes (goes?), and I've probably gone errant in calling this estate 'off-the-beaten-path (though it very much is), as they're quite a famous VDP producer. Christoph Tyrell has been churning out sensational wines at his Karthaeuserhof estate for over 20 years now, and to be honest, it doesn't look like this family will miss a beat as it progresses to the next generation. I've never failed to be amazed by the quality of this man's wines. They are always impeccably balanced, full of sizzling, succulent fruit, and age extremely well. While I can't say I've had any 'library' wines from this estate, I can speak with authority on his 2002 Kabinetts, which have very nearly changed my life on at least three seperate occasions...just absurdly fresh, palate-coating, unctuously textured but still electric, with gobs of gala apple fruit and crispness. These wines are the essence of Ruwer Riesling--steep, decomposed slate--and I recommend them so wholeheartedly that I probably should have written this last sentence in CAPS. Below is my note on a more recent 2005 Eitelsbacher Karthaeuserhofberg Riesling Kabinett, 9.5% alc/vol, A.P.Nr. 3 561 303 08 06. Wintergreen/spearmint on the nose, jazzed up with some Sonic Lime-Aid, almost borderline kiwi intensity, framed by subtle leesy white chocolate notes and a top-note of white tea. This is still surprisingly fresh and primary, a time capsule back to the essence of 2005. Finishes with the staying power of an Energizer Bunny: Loads of ripe, rich, racy apricot jam and the tingly sweet-sour sensation you get when you down a whole handful of golden raisins. The nose and palate are synchronized beautifully in their applesauce notes; Musselman's on steroids. Still incredibly fresh and precise for a wine going on four years old, though I expect that from this estate. There's nothing blowsy about this wine. Mouth-coating but seriously and vibrantly structured...endowed, one could say; more like a mini-Spaetlese, with the stuffing for at least another 10 years. I can't remember the exact date I tasted this, but who cares. All that matters is that I'm writing here again.